The Wonders of Nahmint: Leaving Legacies

Late November of 2021 found Greg, Florence, Ruby, and me walking quietly down a logging road in the Nahmint Valley, in search of adventure. While it would have been easy to spend this blustery autumn day on the couch, we were excited. This was tree hunting weather!

Nearby, clouds of smoke from burning slash drifted skyward, a reminder that this was still, after all, a “working forest.”

Greg’s plan was to show us a familiar old growth forest on the Nahmint River, then to explore some uncharted territory on our way north. The day was to end in the company of an immense Douglas fir, perhaps ten centuries old!

A graduate of the Vancouver Island University ( VIU) forestry program, Greg works as a forest technologist for British Columbia Timber Sales (BCTS). He now volunteers his time to help educate students on the finer points of field work, and Ruby and Florence were two of the students he was mentoring, at the time. I had been invited to share in the experience, but full disclosure, it’s not exactly difficult to convince me to go chasing after big trees, even in a torrential downpour!

Leaving the logging road, for the promise of old growth forest
Greg and Ben, ready for adventure!

That brief stroll on the logging road soon brought us to a forest that felt entirely primeval. The remains of a massive fallen fir made a strong first impression, delighting the dogs. Angus, an English Springer Spaniel, and Ben, a German Shepherd, are Greg’s regular sidekicks, and have become two of my closest friends!

Angus in his element

I was to learn that day that the forestry program draws a wide variety of candidates. Florence had worked in the technology/business sector in France before moving to British Columbia to pursue a career among the trees. If memory serves me correctly, Ruby’s from Vancouver Island, and now works in the Kootenay region as a firefighter.

Ruby and Florence enjoy the first big tree of the day!

If you happen to live in British Columbia, you might have seen some of the television commercials the British Columbia New Democratic Party (BCNDP) was running in 2021 in order to convince voters they were committed to the preservation of old growth forests. On this day, we were to tour one of two areas they had selected to gather images for those ads, but in the end, film footage from the alternate location was chosen. So, have the BCNDP done a better job of protecting old growth forest than their predecessors ( the former B.C. Liberal Party)? I’ll answer yes, but truthfully, that was not a high bar to clear.

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What lies ahead?

What I will say confidently is that there is a lot of work that remains to be done before I believe the government of British Columbia is thoroughly dedicated to conservation! If you’d like to view one of the commercials, I’ve included a post below from the fine journalist Sarah Cox, who writes for The Narwhal, where she prompted some discussion on the topic.

The ancient bark of Pseudotsuga menziesii, the Douglas fir

Gazing across the river at the towering spires piercing the mist did not fail to inspire our imagination. Here, on the banks of the Nahmint River, it’s clear that wilderness ought to be protected, not exploited. Quite simply, there is no justifiable reason left to log old growth forest.

Nahmint River

Biodiversity in this grove was remarkable, with large specimens of western red cedar, western hemlock, Sitka spruce, and Douglas fir all represented. Forty years ago, the forests of Nahmint were among the finest British Columbia had to offer, but since then, much of the old growth timber has fallen to the chainsaws. Today, with the recent expansion of Old Growth Management Areas, and the advent of the BCTS Legacy Tree Program, some of these remaining giants are finally seeing the sanctuary they deserve!

Greg measuring a Sitka Spruce tree. This was the first of the species I had seen in Nahmint, at the time
The land along the river here is an exceptional growing site

Traveling upstream unveiled one of the most magical places I have seen in the valley. Moss laden giants, and an endless carpet of ferns sprawled before us, as the river rushed by. Patience was required, as the terrain simply did not allow for fast travel. If you’re going to dedicate yourself to forest exploration, it’s always best not to be hurried.

We followed the trails of Roosevelt elk here!
Organic material like these leaves sustains the forest

We were fortunate to discover, among countless other things, a remarkable den in the hollow of an ancient cedar, a most unusual hollowed Sitka Spruce, and a large western hemlock. As always, it’s the pictures that best tell the story of these treasured places, so I’ll let them do most of the talking for a while!

Western red cedar, Thuja plicata
This was a cold and wet day, but I remember it warmly
Ruby, Florence, Greg, and the dogs enjoying this riverside cedar
Florence observing the art of tree measurement
Exploring
There is a hollow chamber in this tree
Florence emerging from the tree
About an hour into this trek, the rain began falling harder
Reaching skyward
Sitka Spruce, Picea sitchensis
Sitka Spruce trunks are invariably covered in moss
Ruby finds another tree hollow
Now it’s Florence’s turn!
Many centuries of growth are represented in this grove

I’ve always believed that many of the people who feign indifference toward old growth forests might be transformed if they spent some time among the trees. Trite as it may sound, seeing is believing, and it does have a way of awakening souls! Nearly three years have passed since I visited this enchanting place, but I remember it as though it were yesterday.

Never ending greenery!
The Sitka spruce has always been one of my favourite trees
Florence taking note
Ruby among the cedars
We measured several Sitka spruce trees. The largest was 3.56 metres in diameter!
Investigating
Spires
We find a large western hemlock, Tsuga heterophylla
There was a lot of wet ground to avoid, yet much of the time you could not see the water until you were standing in it!
Ruby and Greg with a beautiful cedar, Angus looking on

I’ll not be the first to say that the Nahmint Valley is full of surprises, but on this occasion we were to discover that not all of them are of the fun filled variety! After crossing a small creek, we found ourselves in a tract of forest that seemed lifeless, in stark contrast to the one we had just departed. The trees were in an advanced state of decay, with many having died, and the ground was unpredictable. The four of us staggered forward, falling frequently, fighting our way through what I later called “The Forest of Death.”

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The only photo I took in what I later dubbed the “Forest of Death.” Most of the time there, we were struggling to remain standing

Thankfully, we emerged from its clutches after close to an hour of thrashing. A pleasant clearing materialized, and the trees were healthier once more. Even the rain decided to let up, at least briefly!

We’re back on more stable ground, at least for a while! Time for a snack

Closer examination revealed an arboreal den in a nearby western red cedar, no doubt the home of a black bear. While we didn’t meet any tenants, it was quite evident the den’s opening had been expanded recently. Greg was sure to make careful observations, as such finds are required to be reported and are studied later by biologists.

This cedar is conspicuously tilted, and Florence noticed a western hemlock growing out of its side
Upon closer examination, we discovered the tree is used as an arboreal bear den, with some signs of relatively recent use
The den’s entry

Moving on to our next objective, we soon had to be crafty in order to find our way to (relatively) drier ground. Temperatures were now cooler and the rain resumed with a vengeance, so staying on the move became a strategy for warmth. With daylight fading, it was necessary to climb through some relatively difficult brush, working our way around a series of rocky bluffs. Here, Greg’s navigating skills came in handy, as he was familiar with the terrain. Eventually, we stood beside an incredible Douglas fir, which measured an astounding 3.62 metres (11.87 feet) in diameter! This leviathan rivalled the nearby Alberni Giant in size (3.64 metres/ 11.93 feet in diameter)! I wondered aloud what this valley must have looked like before the timber industry had made its mark.

Now, the rain is falling even harder! I’ll soon be putting my camera away
One of the Nahmint Valley’s largest Douglas firs, this giant measures 3.62 metres (11.87 feet) in diameter!

We sought to linger, and contemplate this creation, but November had other ideas, so we soon carried on. Half an hour later, we reached the truck, and better still, dry clothing to change into! Despite the cold, just minutes later I found myself daydreaming about a return to these forests. The Nahmint Valley had cast its spell once more!

*******AUTHOR’S NOTE*******

Greg and Ben enjoying the moment in what an ancient forest is supposed to look like. Are you concerned about old growth logging? Write your MLA, email them, get involved in conservation! Future generations will thank you!

You’ll note that it’s taken me several years to tell this tale, and for that there are several explanations. One is that sometimes I just don’t get around to stories promptly, but in this case good old procrastination served me well! That’s because conservation promises are best evaluated over time!

Currently, in 2024, I find myself asking most of the same questions about the preservation of ancient forests that I have for years. The BCNDP have made some noteworthy changes since 2021, but facts also indicate that there is a serious disconnect when it comes to implementing effective policies. There may even have been a conscious effort to deceive the public, in that old growth logging is still not being curtailed. I recommend reading the article below, for added perspective.

A North Island New Year

“Hey Mick, I’ve been thinking about a novel way to begin 2023. You game?” The message came from Chris, with whom I’ve shared many an adventure. He was hoping to visit Vancouver Island to ring in the New Year! My response came quickly. “You’ve got my attention, so what’s the plan?” “Well, I’m calling it a mountain, a tree, and a beach. I’d like to head up to the north end of the island and have a look at Koprino Mountain, Grant Bay, and San Jo Smiley.” In all honesty, I drew an absolute blank on those first two names, but I knew the third happened to be Canada’s largest Sitka spruce on record!

Continue reading A North Island New Year

Welcome to the Grand Illusion

In the world of trees, especially when it comes to the western red cedar, what you believe you’re seeing can often turn out to be something entirely different! That was certainly the case recently, when Greg and I journeyed to the remote shores of Doobah Lake, on Vancouver Island’s west coast. We were answering the call of Christine, who serves as the registrar for the BC Big Tree Registry. She had recently received a nomination for a massive cedar, measuring 5.41 metres(17.75 feet) in diameter, and wanted someone to verify the details.

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Exploring Loss Creek

“Shouldn’t I be checking this place out?” That fateful question had often crossed my mind when driving over the Loss Creek Bridge, on Vancouver Island’s Highway 14. The towering Sitka spruce there, rising high into the mist, had long captured my imagination, but invariably I had been concerned with other destinations. Whether it was wandering the tide pools of Botanical Beach, camping at China Beach, or hiking on the Juan de Fuca Trail, I’d always carried on, leaving my curiosity unsatisfied.

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The Loss Creek area, off Highway 14 on Vancouver Island

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The Towering Spires of Cathedral Grove

When talk turns to Vancouver Island’s natural wonders, especially where trees are concerned, it seldom takes long before the name Cathedral Grove is mentioned. This well loved roadside attraction, located near Cameron Lake on Highway 4, rarely suffers from a lack of attention. Whether you’re bound for the Alberni Valley, or the coastal charms of Tofino, discovering this enclave of ancient, towering trees never fails to inspire!

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The Champion Arbutus of Nanoose Bay

There are times, when something eludes you, that you’ve overlooked the simplest of details. That was the case when it came to my first meeting with British Columbia’s champion arbutus. I knew that the tree grew on Vancouver Island, but to start with, I had mistakenly thought it could be found in the Victoria area.

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The Wonders of Nahmint: Big Red and The Wall

It was late October in Vancouver Island’s Nahmint Valley, when cool mornings have a way of jolting your senses. No sooner were we parked, than the silence was broken by the barking of excited dogs, all looking forward to an exciting day! This was to be my second foray into the ancient forests here, where mysteries seem to reveal themselves with startling regularity. On this occasion, Greg had invited Evan and Sasha to join us, along with their dog Sage, delightful companions all. They both have a keen interest in conservation and old growth forests, and well represent the concerns of the current generation when it comes to environmental issues. Evan works as an arborist, and has a particular passion for climbing trees, while Sasha is an experienced and dedicated yoga instructor.

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A Tree Called “Burls”

If you’ve ever spent time with trees, especially those in the vintage category, then no doubt you have seen a burl before. Often presenting as grotesque and unusual masses, at first glance, some are so large and imposing that you might think they are endangering the health of the tree.

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The Glorious Dove Creek Fir

There are times that searching for old growth trees is an arduous and all consuming adventure, including, but by no means limited to, countless obstructions, difficult terrain, fording creeks, traversing canyon walls, and other related hazards. Then again, there are objectives like the Dove Creek Fir, sitting, if you please, on the perimeter of a farmer’s field in Vancouver Island’s Comox Valley, just metres from a well used paved road!

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The Wonders of Nahmint: Fallen Giants and Future Hopes

The mysteries of the Nahmint River Valley, with its legendary trees and abundant wildlife, had long ago captured my imagination. Nestled in the heart of Vancouver Island, near Port Alberni, the river supports one of the most diverse gene pools of salmon on the planet, as well as a thriving steelhead run.

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Nahmint River

Continue reading The Wonders of Nahmint: Fallen Giants and Future Hopes

Travels and adventures in the forests and mountains of British Columbia, and beyond! Member, B.C. Big Tree Committee