The sound was as loud as it was clear, and the distinctive grunt and snapping of jaws left little doubt as to its source. Motioning silently to each other, we beat a hasty retreat down the alder choked logging spur, hightailing it back to the Mamquam Forest Service Road. Chris and I had no question that we’d run into an ill tempered black bear, despite not having seen the bruin. So ended our ill fated assault on Pinecone Peak!
This story had its beginnings in the third week of June 2008, when we had decided to set out to climb the aforementioned mountain. Armed with some decent route descriptions and trip reports from good friend Simon, we had made our way deep into the Mamquam Valley in Chris’s trusty Ford, under deceptively clearing skies. The road was still wet from spring torrents as Chris displayed an array of evasive manoeuvres to avoid obstacles better left to four wheel drive travel. In addition to running some damn fine bookstores ( visit him at one of Vancouver’s Pulpfiction Books locations ), he can also flat out drive a logging road! Up until that ursine encounter, it had been a fairly pleasant outing. We had even taken the time to stop and look at the many creeks bursting with meltwater as the skies seemed to part above, hinting at a bluebird day. Optimistically, I felt that the weather would take a turn for the better, after all, how often does the forecast turn out to be wrong these days?
Alas, we were duped by the weather gods! It was just as well, I suppose. Ominous clouds had begun gathering above and the rain then began to fall, lightly at first, then harder, and harder still. What to do now? Well, we wandered about the valley, hiked up a few logging spurs, located the M-110 logging spur that led to the Pinecone Lakes Trail and Peak 6500, then spent a little more time perusing the area. Some considerably large stumps of Western Red Cedar were one highlight of the morning, along with several piles of shotgun shells and views of misted forest.
Clouds hung low in the morning silence, a deer hopped through an opening in the clearcut and soon disappeared. We marvelled at the endless determination of the road builders, and wondered aloud how many more piles of spent shotgun shells there might be in this valley. Good thing none of the local Leroys were around that day!
A stroll up yet another spur netted a really rare find- an old Zenith cabinet style colour television with, you guessed it, another nearby cache of shotgun shells!
As my friend Tracy later said “Wow, that TV’s seen better days!! I bet it remembers this Coke commercial, or this Big Mac commercial, and, of course, Mikey.” Televisions like these sure do bring back fond memories, don’t they? In my mind, I almost could imagine Adam West (R.I.P.) and Burt Ward in an episode of the old Batman series playing out on screen! Bam! Sock! Thwack!
From there we bushwhacked back through the clearcut, admiring the surprising biodiversity, and the general aura that showed us that the Mamquam Valley was a special place, despite the obvious human disturbances.
We finished our foray with a wander down to the banks of the Mamquam River itself, enjoying the sounds of the roaring current amid the din of the pouring rain, while I vainly attempted to keep my camera dry just to try and land a few decent photos!
It hadn’t exactly been the kind of alpine excursion we’d daydreamed about, but it had nevertheless been a memorable day! I’d characterize it as unexpectedly eventful, at minimum.
Soon enough we were enjoying our lunch in a Squamish cafe, drinking coffee and telling more tales, a little wet but certainly none the worse for wear. An ironic denouement, at least for Chris, considering his profession. We’d come to buy, but settled for browsing, in the end, though we enjoyed it well!
The weeks rolled by swiftly, and soon, summer was almost over. Doug and I seized the opportunity to head up the Mamquam Valley again, before the days began to shorten. On this occasion, not only was it not raining, but the chance of precipitation was basically nonexistent! We were determined to find the M110 logging spur and hike up to Peak 6500, sometimes known as Seed Peak. The mountain sits in the same cirque as Mt Gillespie, in an alpine playground full of tarns, beautiful granite blocks. There are even remnants of a pocket glacier, whose demise seems inevitable.
Here are a couple of views from the road as we drove up the M 110 spur….
After winding our way up all those logging roads, finally we managed to reach the trailhead to Peak 6500. Both the road and the trail had been brushed out and reflagged, making our passage somewhat easier. The track began with a beautiful walk through subalpine forest to a plateau, then followed with a steep scramble up to Peak 5700, which has an outstanding view of the surrounding Coast Mountains!
Getting to Peak 6500 involves dropping down 150m or so in elevation and then climbing up again to another alpine bench. We surely realized this was a superb wilderness area that is highly underrated, and were happy to have the place to ourselves. I recall there was a great sense of relief in the air, as life had been quite stressful of late for us at that time. There is something undeniably therapeutic about the rhythm of time in the mountains, so far away and above the twisted routines of human lives. If only everyday life could measure up to those standards more often!
The spectacular alpine views made this trip worthwhile, from beginning to end. This part of Pinecone-Burke Provincial Park still does not see that much traffic, so you truly get that wilderness feel. It would be a great area to camp in and explore for several days!
The ascent of Peak 6500, which is actually 6580 feet in elevation if you’re a stickler for details, is relatively straightforward. For the most part, it’s what I would call an alpine stroll, with very little technical difficulty or exposure. We explored the basin below at leisure, with its colourful tarns, fast eroding pocket glaciers and sweeping views of the mountains in all directions.
The more we meandered, the greater was my affinity for this place. Should you decide to visit it yourself, please remember to treat it with the utmost respect. Be sure to leave no trace by packing out what you pack in, and take great care not to damage the fragile environment!
Reaching the summit, we settled in for an uncharacteristically long rest, even though neither of us was particularly tired. We’re both of the mind that climbing mountains is best part of peak bagging, as neither of us is all that fond of descents, unless of course there’s beer waiting at the truck!
Peak 6500 boasts some enviable views! One can see the entire Britannia Range, and many of the peaks within Garibaldi Provincial Park, just to name a few, but pictures always speak louder than words, so here are a few more images…
I remember thinking that if I had to choose a mountain to live on every day, this just might be the one. I think Doug agreed with me on that score. Of the many treks we have made together on Fridays just like this one, the Pinecone Lakes area is definitely a standout. There is very little the region lacks. I could even make a strong case for lugging a pack raft up there just to enjoy some paddling on the glacially formed lakes.
As day trips go, this wasn’t a long one by my standards. It was about seven hours car to car including all the alpine sauntering, but the drive up will take you at least a couple of hours, so an early start is recommended. One thing I can assure you is that you won’t be disappointed!
Regrettably, we realized it was time to make our way home, as we were mindful of that long drive ahead of us. While this required a reasonable pace, by no means did we need to rush, and so we savoured the trip home as much as the climb. The magic of this valley lingers on for days, if not weeks. When I was assembling photos for this story, culling them down to a reasonable number was no easy feat!
The wilderness protected by Pinecone-Burke Provincial Park is a beautiful legacy for the province of British Columbia. It may not be far from civilization as the crow flies, but it’s an eternity away in the mind’s eye. I have much gratitude for having had the privilege of sharing it with friends, and now with readers. May it always be the refuge that it is today, wild, free, and undeveloped!